Skylane Bangkok: Cycling Track at Suvarnabhumi Airport

Where do Bangkok’s road cyclists actually train? Where can I ride alongside local cyclists? Where can I do my fitness laps when I’m in Bangkok?

These were the questions on my mind. I found and tried out a few places in the City of Angels. Today, it’s all about a dream destination for ambitious cyclists, offering outstanding training conditions and almost perfect infrastructure.

Yes, I finally made it! I rode the Skylane on my own bike. It was only my new touring bike, but I still managed to keep a good pace on the nearly 25 km (15.5-mile) loop. Especially when I could tuck into the slipstream of other, slightly faster cyclists. And there were plenty of them on this Sunday morning.

I’ve always been fascinated by the track’s distinctive blue surface. That’s why I’ve ridden here several times before. In fact, I’ve now been here twice within a relatively short period since the completion of the second lane, which is reserved for faster cyclists, along with the improved infrastructure. But as I mentioned, this was the first time I rode it on my own bike.

A Play of Colors

In the beginning, the Skylane was green, like many cycling paths in Bangkok. An American cyclist told me that, back then, riders traveled clockwise around the airport grounds, which has since changed. Later, the entire facility was redesigned and upgraded. The result was the striking light-blue track with two lanes. In keeping with Thailand’s left-hand traffic, cyclists overtake on the right.

When I first saw the design concept in 2016, I knew immediately that one day I would ride here. I made that happen not long afterward, as the Great Residence Hotel—where I used to stay quite often—is located just one kilometer away. These days, however, I prefer the Divalux Resort & Spa.

The people responsible must have recognized the potential of the Skylane by then at the latest. Because in 2018, the facility underwent a second major renovation. All cycling fans in Bangkok eagerly awaited its reopening. What had changed?

The entire infrastructure was improved. There are now bicycle shops, food stalls, cafés, and of course the obligatory 7-Eleven. And floodlights! But what surprised me the most was the second lane, which is purple. The reason this particular color was chosen for the narrower lane reserved for faster cyclists is quickly explained: purple is the corporate color of Siam Commercial Bank (SCB), which sponsored the renovation.

Incidentally, SCB is the bank associated with the Thai royal family, with the current King of Thailand, King Vajiralongkorn, holding a stake of more than 23%.

A Training Ground for Triathletes

Anyone who wants to know where Bangkok’s triathletes train should visit the Skylane on a Sunday morning. Triathlon is becoming increasingly popular in Thailand. As a result, there are many triathletes in this city of 9 million people. As they say: dream bikes? You’ll find them here. Top-of-the-line time trial bikes costing several thousand euros are out on the track. And there are dozens of them riding here. Thais enjoy showing what they have.

But you have to get up early. From 6 a.m. onward, things really get busy here. By 10 a.m., most people are already heading home. The American Chris, whom I get talking with, tells me that he gets up at 4 a.m. so he can arrive here early enough. He wants to complete his three laps before it gets too hot.

It was already hot when I was here last time in March, and it gets even worse in April and May, which are the hottest months of the year.

What Makes Skylane Unique

Overall, the facility is modern, clean, safe, and well organized. But there are other reasons why it is so appealing. Where in Thailand can you actually ride a bicycle away from traffic? Without motorbikes suddenly turning onto the road without paying attention to traffic. Without cars parked halfway on the road. Without dogs running out of house entrances and barking at me. There are very few options.

At Singha Park in Chiang Rai, for example, you can do that. But even there, slow riders on a narrow road can sometimes become an obstacle. For serious cyclists, the Skylane is therefore ideal.

But the nearby airplanes, which sometimes fly directly overhead during takeoff or landing, also add to the appeal. “The surrounding landscape is actually rather dull — if it weren’t for the airplanes. I always feel a childlike sense of joy when I watch a plane take off. The fact that these huge, heavy machines can actually fly continues to amaze me. And when the shadow of an Airbus on its final approach passes over me, it becomes a particularly uplifting moment. Perfect timing.”

That is what I wrote more than two years ago when I first rode here.

After all, when cycling here, you are actually riding on airport grounds. As far as I know, there is nowhere else in the world quite like this. It seems this was made possible thanks to the cycling enthusiast King Vajiralongkorn. The facility is operated by AOT. The publicly listed company Airports of Thailand is 70% owned by the Thai government.

A Wild Idea for Bike-Loving Travelers

There are some real adventurers among us. People for whom a long layover at the airport is a nightmare. Sitting around and waiting is not everyone’s idea of fun — and certainly not every woman’s either.

Is it possible to spend the time cycling instead? Yes, it is. A taxi ride to the Skylane takes just 10 minutes and costs around 100 baht, plus a 50 baht airport surcharge. There are rental bikes available for an affordable 400 baht. There is food and drinks available. And there are even showers (in the white building with the “40 Years PTT” sign).

(Note: Apparently, the showers are currently unavailable. Status: January 8, 2020.)

How much time do you need for this? Hmm, that depends a little on how fast you ride and whether you want to take it easy or really push yourself.

There are a few meters to walk to the station where you receive the necessary chip wristbands and can rent a bike. Everything can be completed within 30 minutes, and you’ll be ready to start. = 0.5 hours.

One lap on a rental bike, if you ride at a good pace. = 1 hour.

A quick shower and a small meal. = 1 hour.

A taxi ride there and back should be possible within 30 minutes, including the waiting time for a taxi called through the Grab app.

Altogether, that would take around 3 hours. In addition, you need to allow time for check-in, getting to the gate, and so on. = 2 hours.

That means you need at least 5 hours between leaving the arrivals hall and your onward flight. This seems realistic to me and is definitely more enjoyable than sitting around and getting bored the whole time.

You can find more tips on what to do at Suvarnabhumi Airport when you have a longer wait in my article “5 Tips for Bangkok Airport.”

Information and Facilities

Official name: Happy and Healthy Bike Lane
23.5 km cycling track around Bangkok’s international airport (Suvarnabhumi)
Location: In the Lat Krabang district (sometimes also spelled Lad Krabang). Google Maps https://goo.gl/maps/DU1j3fAVrfTWrkxK8
Opening hours: Every day from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. (The track is illuminated. However, between 6 and 7 a.m., cyclists are still required to use a rear light.)
Admission: Free
Getting there: Traveling from Bangkok by public transport is difficult. Bicycles are not allowed on the Airport Rail Link, except for folding bikes. Taxis are usually not large enough to accommodate bicycles. However, I have seen taxis with bicycle racks before. It is best to ask your hotel for advice.

Taking the train to Lat Krabang is possible, but inconvenient. The station is about 6 km from the starting point.

Because getting there by public transport is so difficult, the large parking area is full on weekends.
Bangkok Airways flies to Suvarnabhumi Airport. Bicycle transportation is free of charge (as of September 2019). It is possible to leave the terminal by bike. Behind the taxi area, there is a road that is also used by a local bus heading to Lat Krabang.
Bike rental: Decent hybrid rental bikes cost 400 baht. Good Look road bikes are also available for 900 baht. At 178 cm tall, I was able to comfortably ride a size S. There are also a few bikes from other brands available. A 1,000 baht deposit must be paid.
Access: The Snap Chip wristband can be obtained free of charge at the last building by presenting an ID card or a Thai driver’s license. This wristband allows you to open the access barriers. Alternatively, it can also be obtained directly at the bike rental shop.
Infrastructure: Parking area, cafés, food stalls, smoothie shop, 7-Eleven, benches for sitting, restroom facilities, and excellent bicycle racks.
Payment for drinks and food can be made using a rechargeable cash card or the wristband (if you want to keep it for your next visit). At 7-Eleven, payment is made in cash.
Beautiful bike shops from brands such as Look, Specialized, Bianchi, and more are impossible to miss on site.
Four restroom facilities are located along the route. There are also benches for resting, if that should become necessary.
Safety: Riding is only permitted with a helmet and proper shoes (no flip-flops). The emergency phone number is clearly displayed not only at the entrance but also along the route. In an emergency, you can even be picked up by a pickup truck, with your bicycle loaded onto the back.
For children: Coming from the parking area, there is a children’s bike park on the left side connected to the facility, and it looks like a lot of fun. Unfortunately, adults are not allowed to enter. Apparently, we’re not allowed to have any fun and have to stay outside.
Parking: The very large parking area can sometimes be full on a Sunday morning. Nevertheless, you can usually still find a small spot. About one kilometer away in the direction of the airport terminal, there are additional parking areas with a special blue bicycle entrance leading to the Skylane. I tested it. Fun.
Accommodation: The Great Residence is located only one kilometer away. Here are my recommendations for other nearby hotels in different price ranges.
Bike service: You can find very good bike shops on Google Maps.

Did I promise too much? No? Then I wish all cyclists a great time trying it out! I will definitely come back. My goal is to come here with my triathlon bike and ride some fast laps with the others.